



Alpes-de-Haute-Provence is one of those departments that genuinely has it all for motorcyclists: high-altitude passes, stunning gorges, lavender plateaus, and perched Provençal villages. Between the Ubaye Valley in the north and the Verdon in the south, the terrain shifts constantly without ever getting boring. The N85, Napoleon's Road, drops you straight into the heart of the department from Sisteron. From there, everything opens up: the hairpins of Col de la Bonette at 2,802 metres, the winding Verdon loop on the D952 and D955, or the endless straight lines of the Valensole plateau in June when lavender fields turn violet. It's also a place where you stop and linger; For faïence pottery in Moustiers, a honey and walnut tart in Banon, or just stargazing at the Saint-Michel-l'Observatoire Astronomy Centre. Plan at least five days to do it proper justice.
What to see and do in Alpes-de-Haute-Provence ?
Alpes-de-Haute-Provence packs a rare variety into one department. The Verdon Gorges, Europe's largest canyon, are the unmissable highlight: hiking, kayaking, climbing, or simply stopping at the panoramic viewpoints along the right bank. At the entrance to the gorges, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, listed among France's Most Beautiful Villages, deserves a stop for its faïence workshops and the star suspended between two cliffs. The Valensole plateau turns deep violet from mid-June to mid-July, a sensory experience unlike any other. Further north, the citadel of Sisteron dominates the Durance river from a rocky spur, and Entrevaux still has its drawbridge and ramparts in perfect condition. Digne-les-Bains, the prefecture, houses the Alexandra David-Néel museum and a UNESCO geopark celebrating 300 million years of geological history. In the Ubaye Valley, Barcelonnette surprises with its Mexican villas. Night-sky enthusiasts should head to the Saint-Michel-l'Observatoire Astronomy Centre, one of Europe's finest stargazing sites. Local gastronomy is equally rewarding: Luberon truffles, lavender honey, Banon cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves, and Forcalquier wines make every stop a discovery.
Verdon Gorges
NatureEurope's largest canyon carved by the Verdon river, with sheer cliffs and stunning turquoise waters attracting hikers and kayakers.
Moustiers-Sainte-Marie
VillageListed among France's Most Beautiful Villages, famous for artisan faïence pottery and a star suspended between two rocky escarpments.
Valensole Plateau
NatureVast Provençal plateau blanketed in violet lavender from late June to mid-July, drawing visitors and photographers from around the world.
Col de la Bonette
NatureFrance's highest paved road at 2,802 metres, linking the Ubaye Valley to the Tinée Valley through the Mercantour National Park.
Sisteron Citadel
HeritageFortress perched on a rocky spur above the Durance river, an iconic symbol of the fortified history of Haute-Provence.
Lac de Sainte-Croix
NatureTurquoise artificial lake fed by the Verdon, perfect for canoeing and viewing the gorges from the Pont de Galetas bridge.
Entrevaux
HeritageMedieval fortified town designed by Vauban, with intact ramparts, drawbridge and a citadel clinging to the cliff above the village.
Barcelonnette and its Mexican Villas
CultureCharming Alpine town in the Ubaye Valley, remarkable for its Mexican-style villas built by 19th-century emigrants who made their fortune in Mexico.
Saint-Michel-l'Observatoire Astronomy Centre
CultureUnder one of Europe's purest skies, this centre offers stargazing sessions, a planetarium, and day and night astronomy programmes.
Lac d'Allos
NatureEurope's largest natural high-altitude lake at 2,228 metres, accessible on foot from Allos village in a pristine alpine setting.
Les Pénitents des Mées
NatureSpectacular rock formation rising over 100 metres high and stretching three kilometres, accessible via a scenic hiking trail.
Forcalquier
HeritageFormer capital of the County of Haute-Provence, with medieval alleyways, a lively market, and remarkable historical vestiges.
Verdon Gorges Prehistory Museum
CultureMuseum in Quinson tracing over one million years of human history with scale models, reconstructions, and archaeological digs.
Lac de Serre-Ponçon
NatureEurope's second-largest artificial reservoir covering 2,800 hectares, offering a stunning inland sea surrounded by Alpine peaks.
Annot and its Sandstone Rocks
VillageCharming medieval village nestled among monumental sandstone boulders, known for its cobbled lanes and renowned climbing site.
Banon
GastronomyProvençal village famous for its AOP cheese wrapped in chestnut leaves and its legendary independent rural bookshop.
Manosque and Jean Giono
CultureThe most populous town in the department, birthplace of author Jean Giono, surrounded by lavender fields and olive groves.
Gréoux-les-Bains
HeritageGallo-Roman thermal spa town between Verdon and Luberon, with a medieval castle-topped old village and picturesque Provençal terraces.
Motorcycle routes and road trip ideas in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence
Alpes-de-Haute-Provence is arguably France's finest motorcycle department. The N85, Napoleon's Road, connects Sisteron to Castellane with sweeping panoramic bends before diving toward the Verdon Gorges. The D952 hugs the canyon on the left bank while the D955 traces the right bank with dramatic viewpoints, combining both makes for a perfect loop. To the north, the D900 follows the Ubaye Valley from Barcelonnette to Jausiers, the starting point for the Col de la Bonette climb via the D64. This ascent, open from June to October, is a mandatory ride for any serious motorcyclist. The Col de la Cayolle (D202) from Barcelonnette and the Col d'Allos (D908) from Colmars offer equally thrilling alternatives. To the south, the D11 crosses the Valensole plateau. Outstanding in June when riding between rows of lavender. For quieter roads, the D17 between Forcalquier and Simiane-la-Rotonde unrolls through bucolic Haute-Provence landscapes that feel almost empty.
Verdon Gorges Loop (D952 / D955)
Classic circuit running both sides of the canyon with viewpoint stops and the Lac de Sainte-Croix. Around 120 km of pure twisting pleasure.
Napoleon's Road – N85 Sisteron to Castellane
Historic road through the heart of the department with wide panoramic bends and open alpine scenery over 80 km.
Col de la Bonette ascent – D64 from Jausiers
24 km of switchbacks reaching 2,802 metres, France's highest paved road, open June to October with lunar-like summit scenery.
Col de la Cayolle – D202 from Barcelonnette
Winding and lightly trafficked road peaking at 2,326 metres, with plunging views into the valleys and a well-maintained surface.
Ubaye Valley – D900 Barcelonnette to Jausiers
Smooth, flowing valley road in the heart of the Alps, ideal for connecting the northern passes with dramatic alpine scenery throughout.
Valensole Plateau – D11 via Riez
Gentle straights and curves between lavender and almond fields, outstanding in June-July for a Provençal colour spectacle.
Verdon Ridgeline Road – D23 from La Palud
Spectacular 23-km one-way loop high above the gorges, with a succession of vertiginous viewpoints directly over the canyon.
Forcalquier to Simiane-la-Rotonde – D17
Hidden backroad through deep Haute-Provence, winding past lavender, ochre and nearly deserted hilltop villages.